Africa is for Lovers

“Whatever you thought, think again.” National Geographic’s September 2005 issue features Africa. Beautiful, exotic, and wild. I’ve been to Africa four times in my life, three of those visits to Ghana in West Africa. My first trip in 2001 was unforgettable. That same year, I visited the Philippines, after having been away for over a decade. I thought I would fall in love with the Philippines, the motherland, and find Ghana as many other countries I have visited, just another interesting place to add to my list of places I’ve seen. I discovered quite the opposite.

I finally understood why everyone I knew that visited Africa praised it. Most people that haven’t had the unique opportunity to visit this phenomenal continent say, “You’re going to Africa? Isn’t it dangerous? Aren’t you afraid?” The truth of the matter is I fell in love with Ghana. I fell in love with the people. To my surprise, I felt more at home in Ghana than I did in the Philippines. I wanted to move there, but once I realized that a local salary would barely cover my student loan payment, living there wasn’t really a viable option. So, here I am in DC.

Last month, I went to Kenya for three weeks for work. Hence, my minimal Churning posts and comments. Africa isn’t known for its telecommunications infrastructure. So, what is Africa known for? What Africans say is, “West Africa is known for its people. East Africa is known for its land.” (Note: Don’t ever quote that to an East African.) And, well, I have to admit, I kind of understand what they meant by that. Kenya, located in East Africa, is breathtaking. Here are my highlights:

Nairobi. The second most dangerous city in Africa, next to Johannesburg in South Africa. I stayed in a sketchy hotel for the first few nights where I met a woman who became my tour guide. She said she was a hairdresser, I believe that’s just a euphemism for prostitute. Uncomfortable with the open windows (no bars or screens) in a first floor room, I moved to an upscale hotel in downtown Nairobi, the historical New Stanley. Not necessarily any safer. You have to take cabs to get anywhere at night. It’s just not safe walking, even if it’s only a block away. Top highlight: An importer-exporter from Denmark told me he thought I was a prostitute. I asked him if he imported-exported people.

Masai Mara. I flew into the savanna on a tiny two-prop plane, landing on a red, dusty runway with a herd of zebras watching us land. This is the place you see in films. I was there during the annual migration. Imagine one million wildebeests and zebras on their way to the Seregenti and then back again. I went on four game drives in an open 4x4. Saw thousands of animals in their natural habitat. Elephants, zebras, giraffes, gazelles, rhinos, hippos, lions, cheetahs, and so much, much more. Top highlight: Seeing two lions mate five feet away. Experiencing the Discovery Channel live is something I will never forget.

Yes, I actually took this photo. I have a whole 30-second series.

Oh yeah, a close second was being suckered in paying a Masai elder $100 for cheap souveniers. I am now a part owner of a Masai village and probably paid for their food for the entire month. And that's 42 people!

Lamu. A tiny historical island off the coast of northeast coast of Kenya, Lamu is only accessible by boat. With narrow sidewalks as streets and a population of less than 5,000, the only forms of transportation are boat, donkey, or foot. Almost entirely Muslim with women in black burkas, I stayed in Shela village where I stood out like a sore thumb. I was there during Ramadan (read: everything closed during the day) and my hotel was across the sidewalk from the local mosque. Every morning, I would be awoken by either morning prayer blasted through a loud speaker or donkeys humping loudly (sounds painful, I might add). I stayed in this new beautiful 8-room hotel renovated from ruins. I was the only guest and was often reminded that I would be treated like a queen, which I was. I went on a sailboat ride at sunset, wandered around the sand dune beaches, and visited the town nearby. All in all, this place is probably one of the most romantic places I’ve visited. It’s too bad I was there alone. Top highlight: Going on a donkey ride and getting a blister on my ass. Yep, you read right, I rode an ass and ended up with a blister on my ass.

Happy Thanksgiving!!